| This substantial
floor lamp was designed to tastefully complement our
rocker, bookcase and side table. It's just the right
height to shed light on your reading material as you
rock away in peace and quiet. It also casts plenty of
light elsewhere, so you can use it as a good source of
ambient illumination. But you don't have to build all
the other pieces in this collection to make use of this
lamp. It can certainly hold its own in any eclectic
furniture arrangement, especially if you choose a
lampshade that works well with the surroundings.
The stained-glass lamp-shade we chose is an Arts
& Crafts reproduction. It's available from John
Haight Studios, 166 North St., Elgin, IL 60120, for
about $300.
Scores of other shades are available at local
lighting suppliers. Just be sure to match the harp you
use in the lamp to the size needed for the shade you
buy. When making your selection, keep in mind that the
bottom of the shade should fall just below the bottom of
the harp bracket.
Stock preparation
Begin by ripping the four post boards to size and
crosscutting them 2 or 3 in. longer than the finished
length. Spread glue on the mating surfaces of two of the
boards, then clamp them together with their edges
perfectly aligned. Repeat this process with the
remaining two boards.
Set up the router with a 5/8-in. straight bit and an
edge guide. Clamp one of the post halves between bench
dogs, then rout a 5/16-in.-deep groove down the center
of the blank (Photo 1). Repeat for the second post half.
Then, crosscut each half of the post to finished length.
Spread glue on the mating faces of the post halves, then
clamp them together. Be sure to align the ends and edges
of the post halves before setting the assembly aside.
Lay out the post taper on two opposite sides of the
blank, then use a band saw to make the cuts (Photo 2).
Remember to keep the saw kerf to the waste side of the
layout lines. Next, clamp the post between bench dogs
and use a sharp plane to remove the saw marks and bring
the taper right to the layout lines. Transfer the
tapered profile to the other two sides and repeat the
procedure to finish shaping the post. Sand the surfaces
smooth.
Cut the lamp top cap from a piece of 1-in.-thick
stock, then use a table saw and miter gauge to cut a 35
degrees bevel on all sides (Photo 3). Next, bore a
9/16-in.-dia. hole through the center of this cap and
sand the piece smooth. Then place the cap on top of the
post, adjusting it for an even overhang on all edges.
Bore pilot holes for 6d finish nails, then apply glue
and nail the cap in place (Photo 4). Set the nails below
the wood surface and fill the holes with a stainable
wood filler.
Glue two oversized blanks together for the base
panels. You can use joining plates to align the boards
while gluing them. Just be sure to keep the plates far
enough back from the finished ends of the panels so they
will not be exposed when you make the final cuts. After
the glue cures on the panels, rip and crosscut them to
size. Make sure that both panels are perfectly square.
Use a table saw to cut the bevels around the panel
edges. Bore a 9/16-in.-dia. hole in the center of the
upper panel, then bore and countersink pilot holes for
fastening it to the post. Sand this panel smooth, then
use 3-in. No. 8 fh screws and glue to fasten this panel
to the post (Photo 5).
Next, make a template for the corbel brackets from
1/4-in.-thick plywood or hardboard. After cutting out
your template, hold it in place against the lamp post
and base. Once you are satisfied with the fit, use it to
trace the shape onto oversized blanks for the actual
brackets. Clamp a blank between bench dogs, with the
bracket outline overhanging the bench. Then, use a sabre
saw to make the cut (Photo 6). Repeat the same process
for each bracket. Sand all the brackets. |
